LBHS: Sprinkler Conversion

Right up there with weeding and deadheading, irrigation maintenance is one of those garden jobs that never really goes away. The task of replacing sprinkler heads, broken emitters, and stretches of punctured drip line is both urgent and important and the problem pops up more frequently than anyone is happy with.

Often times, students (and maybe just people in general) are intimidated by these tasks and are quick to either pass the problem off, or ignore the problem completely. Perhaps for fear of getting wet, the average student is not interested in fixing irrigation, go figure.

However, it is an important skill for at least one student in the garden to know, so, in the following post I have outlined a lesson plan about sprinkler conversion. My logic is that if the students can build the irrigation system, they will know when something is wrong with it. After problem diagnosis, I can then teach the skills they need to fix the specific issue.

Workshop Details:
2 day activity- total 2 hours (30 min. discussion and 90 min activity)

Workshop Goals:
Teach students the importance of water conservation in addition to practical irrigation repair skills.

Required Materials:
-measuring tape
-graph paper
-pruning shears
-* 1/2" x 3/4" bushing
-* 3/4" elbow joint
-* 3/4" 15PSI pressure regulator
-* 1/2" compression tube adapter w/ 3/4" pipe thread
-** 1/2" poly-tubing
-***appropriate joints and end caps for poly-tubing

*you will need 1 part for each sprinkler head that you are removing
** poly-tubing is usually sold in 50 or 100 ft lengths (purchase after measurements are made on day 1 of activity)
*** poly tubing joints are either T-joints, elbow joints, or couplings (purchase after garden layout is determined on day 1)

In this two day activity, I spend the first 15 minutes talking about why it is important to conserve water and where the water comes from. The second half of the discussion I gave an overview of the project and explained the role of the students  in the plan. Then we got to work.

Background information:
What is groundwater, and where does it come from?

The soil holds water in the spaces between grains of sand, clay, and gravel. Where the water fills up all the available space between the soil particles, we say the ground is saturated. We use wells and pumps to tap into this saturated layer, and if we pump the water out faster than the well is being replenished, the groundwater supply shrinks.

Over time, the ground that was once saturated becomes dry and collapses under the weight of the soil above it. As you can see in this famous picture of the San Joaquin Valley, CA, the ground has shrunk almost 60 feet since 1925. Once this ground has collapsed, it cannot be put back. As a result, the maximum amount of water that the soil can hold decreases and there is less water available for the future.

Why do we need to conserve water?

We need to conserve water, so that we can continue to grow crops in the future. Increasing our collective water use efficiency, both in the field and in our homes, is an easy way to reduce waste and preserve our future.

So, who is excited to switch our wasteful sprinklers to a more water efficient drip system now!

Activity Instructions:

As I mentioned earlier, The activity is broken into two separate days. The first day, students will measure sections of the garden that will be maintained by drip irrigation and dig shallow trenches where the poly-tubing will be laid. In addition to recording the length of the trenches, the students will determine the correct number of T-joints, elbows, and couplings that need to be purchased.

As an instructor, you should give the majority of the students their digging instructions first so that you can spend your time making sure that the measuring team is successful. Make sure that the students systematically stack the piles of dirt onto one side of the trench. This will ensure that the soil can systematically be put back once the poly-tubing is laid in the trenches.While most of the students are occupied, assign a group of 3 students to measure the length of the areas where poly-tubing will be laid. Have one of the students record the lengths on a piece of graph paper. I suggest drawing the irrigation plan on the graph paper. This will make the objective more clear for the students. Finally, allow the students to tell you which joints are required to connect the different limbs of the irrigation system.

On the second day, have the students finish digging the trenches, if they have not already done so. After the trenches are completed, break the students up into 4  groups. One group will layout the poly-tubing and cut the pipe using a pair of pruning shears, while another group will connect the poly-tubing using the appropriate joints. You will need another group to start filling in the trenches where the tubing has already been laid. Finally, you will need to assign the last group to rig the sprinkler head up like shown in the picture adjacent to the "Required Materials" section of this post.

I suggest keeping a close eye on the group that is assigned to convert the sprinkler head as it is likely they will be the quickest with their questions. In my retrofit, some of the sprinklers were connected to a 1/2" riser instead of the 3/4" pipe depicted in the required materials picture. As a result we had to insert a 1/2" x 3/4" bushing in between the sprinkler riser and the elbow joint to make the rest of the parts fit on top of the riser.

Please leave comments if you have any questions! Good luck and have fun!

LBHS: Companion Planting and Seedling Starting

Hello again, today's post continues the former by detailing another workshop I developed for the students at Luther Burbank High School. As mentioned in the title, this post is about companion planting and seedling starting.

Workshop Details:

30 minutes (10 minute discussion, 20 minute activity)

Workshop Goals:
Teach students how to start plants in a seedling container. Help students gain an appreciation for the complex relationships that exist between plants in a garden.

Required Materials:
- 6-cell seedling containers (1 per student)
- Potting mix
- Perlite
- Seeds (suggestions for varieties listed below)
- Spray bottles
- Permanent Marker
- Masking tape

After explaining to the students that I was going to break them up into teams and teach them to start seedlings for their fall garden, I mentioned that they would also be making teams. After some confused looks,  I used the quiet greenhouse to explain that the teams were made up of plants that work well together, in other words, companions. 

Background information:

Some varieties of plants, such as those in the genus Brassica, have similar nutrient requirements and are susceptible to the same pests. For example, planting Broccoli, Cabbage, Kale, Kholrabi, and Collards (all Brassicas) next to one another can lead to an infestation of Cabbage Moths.  These little white butterflies lay their eggs on the undersides of the Brassica leaves until they hatch into hungry caterpillars that camouflage themselves supremely well. In addition to creating a serious pest problem, the plants can inhibit the growth of each other by fighting over the same kind of nutrients. However, by acknowledging these problems, you organize your garden to reduce pest problems and nutrient deficiencies. 

In other words, due to all the variables that can limit plant germination
outdoors, it is better to seed each hole heavier than you would indoors.

Below is a list of plants that might grow well next to one another. Generally, one plant is an herb with fragrant leaves and will repel flying insects while the other is always an unrelated species:  

- Bok choy and Celery

- Broccoli and Onions
- Cabbage and Dill
- Cauliflower and Rosemary
- Chard and Fava Beans
- Garlic and Kale
- Lettuce and Radish

- Spinach and Strawberries 

Activity Instructions:

First divide the class into groups and assign each group to seed a different combination of companion plants. Once each groups has received their seeds, they will need to fill their seedling containers with potting soil. It helps to have a large container set out, such as a wheelbarrow, so that multiple groups can fill their trays with potting soil at the same time. In addition, a wheelbarrow will give you and easy way to moisten the potting mix before the students put the seeds in their containers. Though moistening the potting mix is not required, by wetting the mix before the students fill their containers, they will be able to easily poke a finger in each cell of their container to the depth of their fingernail. 

Two students show off their seedling trays newly topped with Perlite.

After the students have made a hole in each cell in their container they are to take ONE seed and put it in the hole. After the students have carefully placed the seeds into their containers, they should cover their seeds with a thin layer of perlite to help the soil retain moisture while reducing the chance that fungal gnats will want to lay their eggs in the seedling trays. Fungal gnats prefer dark colored soil because it is indicative of moisture, however the white Perlite can be used to fool these pests... sometimes.

Finally, the students need to label their trays by sticking some masking tape marked with a permanent pen to the side. The students will want to record their name, date seeded, and plant variety. Labeling the trays will help the students identify their variety of seedling and track its growth as it matures into adulthood. 

LBHS: Aerobic Composting

Workshop Series

Hello again, the following post details my progress working with students in the gardening elective at Luther Burbank High School in Sacramento. As a result, this particular post will become augmented as I develop more curriculum for the students. 

The school itself has an amazing infrastructure complete with 20 raised beds, a greenhouse, shade house, animal stalls and a barn which houses a tractor! Unfortunately, after the school lost funding for its gardening program 7 years ago many of these resources have been neglected. The tractor now gathers dust, the barn is used for storage, and animals are no longer present on campus. However, due to the superhuman efforts of teacher, Aaron Mcclatchy, and Health Corps Coordinator, Isa Del Signore Dresser, I have been given the opportunity to teach the students some skills they can use to revive their gardenscape (picture below).

Aerobic Composting Building and Scavenger Hunt

The aerobic composting workshop takes about 20 minutes including 10 minutes of discussion and 10 minutes of activity.

Workshop goals:

Teach students what compost is and how to make it. Teach students why composting is important.

Required materials:

- spade/pitchfork

- food scraps

- leaves, grass clippings, yard waste

- hose 

- staging area for compost pile

After an initial discussion where I asked the kids some simple questions, "What is compost?", "Why is composting important?", I realized that none of the students felt comfortable with the what or whys of composting. As a result I gave a brief talk about soil and plant nutrients to supplement the compost talk.

Background information:

Compost is decomposed plant matter. Composting is important because it replaces nutrients that were taken from the soil. Just like humans need certain vitamins and foods to stay healthy, plants need certain nutrients found in compost in order to grow and produce fruit. Plants gather nutrients from the soil and store those nutrients in their leaves, stems, flowers, and especially fruits. In conventional agriculture, we harvest the parts of the plant that have the highest concentrations of nutrients and ship them hundreds of miles away from where they were grown in order to feed people. As a result, those nutrients that were once in the soil are now also hundreds of miles away and over time the soil will become depleted of vitamins that plants need. By composting, we return the nutrients that we took from the soil. Thus, composting is important because it ensures that the land will continue to support us. 

How to make compost:

We make compost by layering high nutrient food waste with low nutrient yard waste and adding water. By sandwiching a layer of food waste in between two layers of yard waste we are creating an environment that is suitable for the decomposing microbes to breakdown the plant matter into soil. All we have to do is add water until the waste pile is about as wet as a wrung out sponge. 

Activity Section:

Each student is encouraged to help build the compost pile by digging a hole in the yard waste and placing a shovel full of food waste into the hole. 

The next part of the activity encourages students to go on a scavenger hunt in the pile and identify the following items:

- a piece of high nutrient waste

- a piece of low nutrient waste

- find something that doesn't belong in the pile

After the activity section of the workshop, one student is asked to water the pile as the others reflect on the pieces of waste they gathered from the pile. The students should be able to justify what they found as fitting into one of the three categories mentioned above. 

Worm Farming

Hello everybody! As promised, this week I will talk about worms! More specifically, I will start by talking about worm manure, why it is so great, then go into how you can start your own worm farm!

Vermicompost, worm casings, and black gold are just a few names to describe the glorious excrement that comes from composting worms. Arguably the most premium nutrient supplement you can add to your soil, red wigglers are used commercially to create worm manure. 

The advantages of using any kind of organic soil supplement, but especially vermicompost, over a conventional fertilizer are countless and there are only 2 disadvantages I can think of. 

Pro: Worm manure contains all the minerals a plant needs to stay healthy. Conventional fertilizers only supply macronutrients; specifically, Nitrogen, Phosphorous, and Potassium (NPK). As a result, continual use of conventional fertilizer will rob the soil of its micronutrients, like Iron, Calcium, Zinc, Boron, Magnesium...I think there are nine in total. Basically, plants take up all the available micronutrients they can while making use of the abundant NPK, until the micronutrients become limiting factors to the plants growth. Over time, no amount of inorganic fertilizer will help them thrive when minerals like Iron, used to create chlorophyll, or Zinc which regulates plant growth, are missing from the soil.

Con: Worm manure is more expensive to buy from the store than conventional fertilizers.

Pro: Worm manure is easy to make yourself. Conventional fertilizer... forget about it.

Pro: Worm manure also contains beneficial microbes which help create and maintain a resilient and bio-diverse soil community. This community supports the plant and makes nutrients more accessible to the plants fine root hairs. Conventional fertilizers often create extreme soil conditions that singe off those fine root hairs and kill the microbes in association with the plant. Consequently, the plant needs to be watered more because it lacks a healthy root system. Even worse, the plant is more susceptible to new plant diseases who now have all the resources they could want in a soil community sterilized from all of its competitors. 

Con: The nutrients in worm manure are released more slowly into the soil community. Thus is takes longer than conventional fertilizer to get the plant what it needs.

Pro: The nutrients of worm manure stay in the soil where they are needed. Conventional fertilizers often leech into the groundwater and pollute the environment and surrounding habitats.

So, at this point you are probably thinking one of two things. 1) "Jeff, I get it, worm manure is better.. please move on," or 2) "OMG I feel so empowered to learn more! Quick, tell me how I can make my own and not feel like I'm being ripped off from the store!"

Well, either way, here's how I did it. The picture to the right shows the bin which I constructed of redwood. The dimensions are 2.5' tall x 3' wide x 6' long. Making sure the worms don't overheat or get too cold is important. Making a bin that is low to the ground and using plenty of bedding and  cover will prevent extreme temperature fluctuations. In addition, you never want the bin to be waterlogged so make sure there is drainage. The worms need access to air as well.

NOTE: Access to air does not necessarily mean an open container. You want the worms to have a home where they don't have to compete with flies, roaches, or rats for their food. This bin did have a lid which closed down on top. However, the lid did not close very snugly and I had a fly problem with this bin. 

So, I re-purposed the bin into a raised bed, where you can see zucchini and tomatoes growing, and made version 2.0 out of a broken refrigerator that my fraternity was going to throw away. This is the perfect worm farm. It is insulated, retains moisture, and is sealed air-tight to keep out flies and other pests. Because it is air-tight, I had to drill some holes on the sides so the worms could breathe and just taped some mesh over the holes to keep out flies.

So, with this old fridge, I adopted a small starter colony of worms from the Ecological Garden at the UC Davis Student Farm. I simply tucked the little wigglers into a bed of damp, yet fluffed out, newspapers and gave them just a little food to snack on. Once I was sure that the population was growing I started feeding them more, and more, until now, I just can't feed them enough!

So to conclude, I thought I would leave you all with a big ol' picture that showcases the raw awesomeness of version 2.0. BEHOLD!




Next week: Fall companion planting!

P.s. When reading the paint on the side of the Bad Fridge you may have noticed that "NON ORGANIC PRODUCE" is on the side marked with an unhappy face. You CAN feed worms conventional, non-organic, produce. I just didn't want any residual pesticides or herbicides to end up in my compost. Okay, The End.

Mosaic Stepping Stones

Hello again, as foreshadowed at the end of my last post, today's post will be about mosaic stepping stones!

Stepping stones are wonderful. I just cant say enough good stuff about them.


They can be designed to be focal points in a garden, enhance the colors in nearby vegetation, or you can place them in series to act as little targets for the feet of children, who may otherwise take a detour through your lovely flower patch.


A single, intricate, and particularly colorful stone can be placed in a remote part of the garden. This is the kind of thing that can lift your spirits when you are hanging your head and just feel like staring at the ground. They transform broken plates and tears into beautiful art .

They make great conversation pieces too. They can be made from sea shells that were collected during a beach vacation, favorite rocks from a hiking trip, or even the broken glass from David and Rachel's wedding ceremony.

As you can see in the picture to the left, this stepping stone is made from broken dishware. The dishware was collected by the UC Davis Dining Services staff whenever a student would drop a piece of colorful "fiesta-ware."

If you are blessed enough to be in range of a large scale cafeteria or restaurant with clumsy waiters I would suggest networking a little bit to recieve some free art supplies. Simply explain to the manager that you are concerned about waste in the food industry and hint that the business' name is sure to come up in conversation whenever somebody asks, "Oh my, what a beautiful stepping stone! Where on earth did you find all those plates?"

Instructions:

This is not a step-by-step guide complete with mixing ratios. The following is simply a couple of pointers that the bag of mortar, or box of grout won't tell you.

Planning:

Once you have collected your broken plates or leftover bathroom tiles. Roughly lay out the pieces onto the stone to make a design. Consider the function of the tile when creating the design. If the stepping stone is being used to facilitate heavy foot traffic, it is pretty important to use flat pieces to create a uniform and durable stepping surface.

Mortar:
Use the instructions on the bag to mix your mortar. In order to glue the pieces in place, Apply some mortar to the back of the tile like you are smearing a big glob of thick peanut butter onto the back of a cracker. Next, smush the tile down onto the stone, so that the mortar squishes out from the sides. Just make sure that the side squish does not come above the level of the tile. Otherwise, the mortar will interfere with the grouting process.

Grout:
Mix the grout and apply generously into every nook and cranny of the design. Don't be scared to really cake it on thick. The grout doesn't dry very fast and you can always smear it to other parts of the stone that are lacking. Once you have grouted the design, reinforce the rim of the stone to reduce the chance that someone will trip and break a piece of tile off. I like to use my hands, once the grout has dried a little bit, to smooth down the contours of the stone, and shape the rim.

Polishing:
After the grout has dried for about 20 minutes,  take a slightly damp rag and gently wipe off any grout that is stuck to the surface of the mosaic pieces. Careful not to make the rag too damp, otherwise it becomes too easy to wipe off more grout than you bargained for. After 2 hours, the grout should start getting pretty hard. Use the damp rag again to finish polishing the mosaic pieces until they shine.

And there you have it, your very own signature garden piece! So, start collecting those broken dishes and give them a life beyond the landfill.

Next week: Worms!

Looking forward,
Jeff

Open for Business!

For my first post on this blog it seems appropriate to write about where the business is going and how it got started. My intention is to keep my clients, friends, and family up to date with my professional endeavours and, hopefully, to inspire you, the reader, with all kinds of ways to get involved in your food system! 

Now that you know my intention, I will admit that this first post is not nearly as professional as I promise future posts will be. Anyways, here's where I am going with this: 

Edible Landscape Solutions (ELS)  is a garden consultation business that can install raised garden beds, compost systems, and chicken coops. The clients are then invited to periodic workshops which serve as tutorials; teaching those involved how to grow and use their own food. 

The goal of ELS is not to turn every front lawn into a row cropping operation. The goal is to get people excited about growing their own food by creating dynamic gardens which incorporate annual crops into an ornamental landscape full of color and nutrients. 

This blog will highlight different projects that I am working on, advertise workshops that are coming up in the future, and serve as an online portfolio for those interested in a consultation. 

But how did this journey begin? (Warning: sentimental section ahead)

Well, I suppose the path which led to the creation of ELS begins on my Great Grandfather's farm in Landenberg, Pennsylvania (pictured left) and meanders around the inspiring people and teachers I have had in my life.

This farm gives me something to fight for. The experiences I have accumulated here has helped cultivate a massive sense of appreciation for nature and seeded my desire to protect and restore the balance of things. The first 13 summers of my life were spent exploring  the surrounding woods and creeks of this 48 acre piece of paradise. This farm is the reason why I love the smell of compost. Every time I close my eyes and smell a handful of casings from my worm bin, I am instantly taken back to my Pop-Pop's woods. I can see myself standing among the trees, inhaling the aroma of the wet forest floor. Now, I can see myself searching for insects to throw into my pet spider's web or perhaps more toads to keep safe in  the window well above the basement. 

Just as the farm gave me something to fight for, the following acknowledgements are made to those who taught me to fight:

It was my AP Environmental Science teacher in High School who opened my eyes to the injustices that humanity had inflicted on the earth and inspired me to pursue further education in the subject matter. Thank you, Mr. Holloway.

It was my college adviser who put the bug in my head that I might want to try my hand at growing my own food. Thank you, Liz. 

It was the Kids in the Garden program at the Student Farm that showed me that I could inspire the next generation of citizens to appreciate good food and biodiversity. Thank you, Carol and Maggie. 

It was the director of the Student Farm that showed me how to organize and mobilize a group of individuals, with the same vision, to achieve something great. Thank you, Mark.

It was the founder of F.A.R.M. Davis that taught me how to make a front yard farm, and that the best way to learn something is to just do it. Thank you, Robyn. 

It was my uncle who inspired me to start my own business and my grandfather who taught me the value of craftsmanship. Thank you, Robb. Thank you, Granddad. 

Finally, It was my mom who gave me the confidence to dream and do whatever I put my mind to. Thank you, Mom. 

To those reading this thinking, "Gee, I am rather disappointed I did not receive any mention," try not to be too upset. Those mentioned had particular relevance towards the creation of ELS in particular. Take solace in the fact that I may mention your name when/if I start a more personal blog. 

Until then, keep reading! 

Coming up next: mosaic stepping stones!